28.07.25
FASHION IS ENTERING ITS GILDED AGE
After a few years of quiet luxury, conspicuous clothing is back in.
I don’t know about you, but I like my luxury noisy.
After several seasons and TikTok trend cycles of Quiet Luxury domination, it seems the fashion pendulum has swung once again as designers find new inspiration in visible markers of craftsmanship and quality. Of course, minimalist mainstays like Max Mara, Hermes, and The Row are still doing their whisper thing. In fact, the latter one-upped last season’s “no phones” runway rule and released only an aesthetically out-of-focus lookbook, leaving those who didn’t experience the collection IRL in Paris with little to go on.
On the whole, though, the most talked-about collections of the season embraced a new vision of luxury. It’s the return of opulence—with more in-your-face fashion than ever.
Fashion Is Entering Its Gilded Age
In Milan, high-shine hardware and ornate lace made appearances alongside sumptuous brocade and textured patent leather. Meticulous hand embroidery and sparkling beadwork made an impressive showing in Paris. Color was back, too, with rich shades of scarlet, plum, and rose popping up on runways in New York, London, and beyond.
Designers from Saint Laurent to Valentino were—respectfully—total show-offs this season, creating garments that were rather conspicuous in their craftsmanship and technique. Unlike, say, a high-quality double-faced wool or surprise silk lining, you couldn’t miss the work that went into Prada’s reflective disco ball dress with enlarged sequins (skillfully paired with a yellow raincoat) or the lace-adorned pantaloons at Chloé.
Back stage at Valentino’s Spring 2025 runway show. Credit: Getty Images
Of course, Alessandro Michele’s official Paris debut for Valentino (and the follow-up to his 189 look resort collection) was always going to be opulent—the man never met a lace glove or playful appliqué he didn’t love. But what he sent down the runway on Monday proves his new vision will be less quirked-up whimsy (à la Gucci) and more embellished romance for Valentino.
Surrounded by bedsheet-covered furniture and broken mirrors straight out of Miss Havasham’s house (okay, maybe there’s still a little quirk here), the show’s driving force was Michele’s compulsion to decorate every surface and detail of his work. Polka-dotted cream boots embellished with leather danced alongside an intricate boho print and silk jacquard. Fur stoles, trim, and coats (also polka-dotted) garnished the majority of looks. Intricate beadwork and embroidery were everywhere: trimming a pair of trousers, embellishing a set of red lace tights, or scaling a silk chiffon dress. It was opulence incarnate to the delight of fans of Michele’s maximalism and the dismay of anyone with a dust allergy.
Look 9 and Look 45 of Prada’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Credit: Courtesy of Prada
In Milan, the latest Prada showing delivered a visual feast, eschewing the usual Raf Simons restraint for some unbridled fun. From a yellow rain slicker paired with silver sequins to a crumpled and fabulous mess of a dress, the entire collection had a socialite-caught-in-a-windstorm feel. Imagine the most fashionable party girl you’ve ever met got dressed in the dark for a midnight bodega run after her latest fête—what would she wear? If your answer is anything other than designer sweatpants paired with cowboy boots and luxurious green suede or pink leggings-as-pants and fur-trimmed tweed, Miuccia Prada would like a word. I imagine few things feel more opulent than stepping out in a nautical swimsuit under a lady-like leopard coat for some late-night Ben & Jerry’s, and that’s the fantasy put forth by this smash-hit collection.
Models walk in the finale of Saint Laurent’s Summer 2025 runway show. Credit: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
On September 24, Anthony Vaccarello proved opulence is a spectrum at Saint Laurent, putting immaculate three-piece suits (worn by Bella Hadid, no less) next to ornate Bonfire of Vanities party sets that recalled ‘80s glamour. It’s impossible to choose which was more opulent—a finale of tri-color layered skirts, glittering florals, and door knocker earrings or a Patrick Bateman capsule wardrobe of high-end tailoring—but either way, there’s nothing inconspicuous about Vaccarello’s concept of luxury.
Even Chloé, with all its free-spirited ease and femininity, doubled down on last season’s sumptuous color palette (earth tones and soft pastels) with extra lavish details. Bloomer-inspired designs with generous lace trim stole the show last Thursday, while a host of multi-tiered bubble gowns made a strong case for volume. All paired with metallic seashell accessories and gold belts that verged on fine jewelry, Chemena Kamali presented a bohemian take on opulence that’s sure to win over the Glastonbury set.
Details at Chloé’s Spring 2025 show at Paris Fashion Week. Credit: Courtesy of Chloe / Getty Images
There was opulence to be found in truly every city, setting, and style this September. At Seán McGirr’s second collection for McQueen, feather collars and dramatic silhouettes reigned supreme. Balmain showed eveningwear covered in an artfully cropped (and bedazzled) shot of Kylie Jenner’s face. Tory Burch elevated her usual prep staples, delivering a sports-inspired collection made indulgent with sequins, pattern play, and sensuous texture. Simone Rocha continued to riff on balletcore, turning out the dancer’s tulle and chiffon with embedded florals. And at Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière posed the question: What’s more opulent than a runway made of Louis Vuitton steam trunks?
Speaking of accessories, bags were bigger and bolder than ever. There was a white woven clutch the length of an actual French baguette at Bottega Veneta, a comically oversized buttery red purse with a non-functional top chain at Stella McCartney, and massive heart carry-alls made from Coach’s signature leather. That’s not to mention the gorgeous glass slippers (Victoria Beckham, Rabanne) and furry feet (Bottega Veneta, Ferragamo) that traipsed past front-row onlookers throughout the month.
Whether or not this is a permanent vibe shift remains to be seen. But the quiet luxury hype could only hold out for so long. It’s possible shoppers—or even the designers themselves—will crave a bit of glamour in 2025. Increasing prices, an (allegedly) impending recession, and currency inflation mandates that a collection elicits a gasp, not just a nod, for customers to pull out their Apple Pay. As fashion history shows, wealth inequality begets ostentatious clothes. So, perhaps this is the beginning of a second Gilded Age in fashion—it was, after all, a theme for the Met Gala.
Put more simply, there are only so many “quiet” wardrobe staples one can own before a wardrobe starts to feel bleak and repetitive—especially if money is no object. But a silly silk turban or hole-punched leather skirt? That’s the sort of opulent nonsense you can’t help but love.
Source: instyle.com
