26.06.25
The History Behind the Ever-Coveted Love de Cartier Bracelet
Since its creation in a New York workshop in the late 1960s until its ascent into the ranks of jewelry icons, the Love de Cartier bracelet has transcended eras without losing an ounce of its brilliance.
In 1969, New York: at the dawn of the hippie years, the slogan “Peace & Love” resonated even in the quiet corridors of the Cartier house on Fifth Avenue. That year, Aldo Cipullo, an Italian-American designer, presented Michael Thomas, the then very young president of the jewelry house, with a prototype bracelet adorned with small screws, distinguished by its simple yet playful nature. The ingenious idea lay in the assembly of this oval bracelet, formed by two rigid circular arcs. To fasten them, they had to be screwed together with a miniature screwdriver; thus, it required two people to wear the bracelet, and it was the other person who had to hold the screwdriver, becoming the sole one capable of opening the jewel and, metaphorically, holding the key to their partner’s heart.
An object arrived at the right moment for a fashion house that had made boldness and playfulness the essence of luxury and sought to inject new momentum into its creations. Minimalist and functional, beautiful and full of symbolism, the “Love” bracelet would become a manifesto. An idea both romantic and paradoxical for a generation dreaming of freedom and refusing commitment!
A Powerful Symbol
More than just a simple piece of jewelry worn around the wrist, this bracelet is truly an object filled with love and strong symbolism, never leaving its wearer. Neutral and unisex, it’s not circular but oval to fit any wrist… a bond created between two people wishing for their immortal love through this iconic piece.
After a breakup, Aldo Cipullo came up with the idea of making these “modern love handcuffs,” in the designer’s own words. Inspired by American hardware stores he enjoyed visiting with his brother, this seemingly minimalist and functional design was actually intended to preserve the memory of a lost love. “I felt so sad. I wanted something that no one could take away from me. I was looking for a permanent symbol of love,” he said at the time.
The Legendary Bracelet
To anchor this jewel in the modern love story, Cartier introduced it to the most iconic couples of the time: the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Ali MacGraw and Steve McQueen, and of course, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor. The latter also contributed significantly to its fame by wearing it at Marie Hélène de Rothschild’s Proust Ball in 1971 (which Cecil Beaton immortalized), as well as in the film Une belle tigresse (1972). Aldo Cipullo himself admitted to having watched the film four times just for the pleasure of admiring his creation, which is more than just legendary!
In 1979, Cartier adorned the product with diamonds.
In 1983, singer Tina Turner wore the Love bracelet during her triumphant comeback. It was the only piece of jewelry she wore… which speaks to the aura and symbol of resilience that this timeless and certainly unusual piece of jewelry conveys!
Soon, many celebrities joined the game with these clever screw-on bracelets, from Caroline of Monaco to Sophia Loren to Margaux Hemingway, not forgetting Nancy and Frank Sinatra. However, it was rumored that the bracelet could only be purchased for oneself, because above all it was a pledge of love! Legend or reality, it doesn’t matter; single individuals embraced this phenomenon more for its aesthetic aspect than for its inherent meaning.
A Complete Collection
Since then, the Love bracelet has enjoyed the brilliant fate of icons that have changed history. Over time, the watch transformed into white gold then rose gold, adorned with precious stones or diamonds set on the screws, before appearing in an incredibly delicate mini version in 2016. In 2017, the bracelet was so coveted that the house of Cartier made it the pretext for an entire collection. Consequently, several other pieces of jewelry such as rings, necklaces, and even earrings were produced…
Who are its fans today? Girls like Chiara Ferragni, Kendall Jenner, or Eva Chen, and celebrities like Kanye West and Angelina Jolie. Many New York hospitals even own one to be able to open the bracelet, if needed. The bracelet is also checked by security personnel at airports, and it has even been called “the most troublesome object” because it’s almost impossible to remove it during inspections.
This is certainly why, in 2017, Cartier launched a new Love bracelet… a bracelet that, while retaining everything from its unbreakable roots, does not require the assistance of a second person to open and close.
Finally, the Love de Cartier campaign for 2020 summarized the power of jewelry creation for this aspirational bracelet. The campaign cleverly asks: “How far would you go for love?”
Credit: L’OFFICIEL VIETNAM
